Day of The Dead, Mexico
Posted by Jill Bowen on Thu 29th March 2007 at 11:31 PM, Filed in November
Morbid, gruesome, weird – maybe, with our ‘up-tight ’English way of behaving and thinking it could be all of these things. But, celebrating ancestors, for the lives they had and what they gave to us, their love, heritage and their genes that make us who we are.
This Spanish holiday is celebrated in countries worldwide and has been since 1800 BC. In Mixiquic, a small town on the southeast fringe of Mexico’s ‘Distrito Federal’ it starts at midnight on 1st November and lasts 24 hours (until midnight 2nd November). The festival kicks off with the people of Mixiquic welcoming back the spirits of their ancestors. Instead of the sombre, emotional affairs that graveside visits become in other parts of the world, this is a celebration, a joyous fiesta, and a reunion to giving thanks for ancestors.
The atmosphere in the town is incredible, troops of dancers dressed in feathers with faces painted in a ghoulish manner, beating drums – loud enough to wake the dead from centuries ago – can been seen, and very much heard! Masses of stalls are set up selling food and handicrafts (tourists won’t go hungry or thirsty when they visit), although they may fall over if they imbibe too much tequila! Shops brim with festive goods, some will appear ghoulish to our eyes – skeletons dancing on sticks, chocolate and marzipan skulls, with mint teeth and sweets for eyes. Children dress up in costume, and as daylight breaks families start visiting the graves, maybe having breakfast at one, lunch at another, and supper at a third – time to reminisce about departed soles, time to give thanks for their lives. Houses are adorned with bright flowers and decorations. A lot of the houses are set up with shrines, with offerings of food and other items so that the spirits will find their way home and feel welcome.
At the edge of the town boats, strewn with garlands, glide along the river ferrying people along. Marquees are set up along the riverbanks, all blaring out music.
One must not forget that underlying the fiesta feeling there is a religious sentiment. This comes to the fore at the close when everyone gathers in the cemetery to welcome the spirits back. Whole families visit graves; flower petals are strewn around the cemetery, lit votive candles add to the atmosphere, lighting up the area with their soft, gentle glow. The smell of incense pervades the air, adding to the solemnity of the occasion.
A mixture of carnival with an underlying belief makes this a unique event. Tourists do go, and are made welcome, however, the locals are concerned that, whilst joyous and a celebration of their traditions, the event doesn’t become too much of a circus and trivialised.
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